Today I had lunch with my friend and recent bride Tracy at Cowell & Hubbard in Playhouse Square, the newest installment from executive chef Zach Bruell (think Chinato, Parallax, L'Albatross, etc.). I had perused the menu in advance (as I normally do in anticipation of a great meal) and the frogs legs had already piqued my interest. Tracy, being a kindred spirit of the adventurous dining sort, agreed to split the frogs legs and risotto with me.
The "legs" (two frogs' worth) arrived deep-fried and splayed on top of a bed of sauteed radishes and small, round potatoes, all swimming in a rich, butter sauce. My first forkful was delightful, a nice blend of the soft, tender white meat and the buttery sauce, but my second bit was full of small bones and gristle, which wasn't pleasant. The deep-fried coating was light and not too overpowering, but the richness of the sauce was a little much for both of us. I think we became more and more weirded out by the prospect of eating a frog the more we ate, but I would give us both a gold star for attempting this dish. The radishes had an odd, bitter flavor but the potatoes complemented the legs nicely.
The risotto was advertised as including lima beans and shrimp but also appeared to have shredded ham, which contributed a smoky, homestyle flavor. The lima beans were not your standard small green bean but larger and darker. The four grilled shrimp that came on top of the risotto were flavorful and fresh, and probably the best aspect of the dish.
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